Greece is famous worldwide for its islands and crystal blue beaches. Of course, there is much more than that, as the country contains many surprises for visitors open to discover them. The north, the Greek Macedonia – part of the Macedonian region, occupied by Greece, North Macedonia, and Bulgaria – is full of historical and natural landmarks, immersed in Christian-orthodoxy and Mediterranean beauty.
Thessaloniki – a multicultural gem
The capital of the region, Thessaloniki, is a crossroad of cultures. Over the centuries the city has been a dominion of the Romans, the Byzantine empire, the Venetians, and the Turkish.
Thessaloniki’s old town, up the hills, is indistinguishable from any former Ottoman city, with his narrow and steep alleys, plenty of cats and colorful houses with traditional red roofs. Encompassed by the ancient middle-age Byzantine walls, this part of town hides numerous monasteries, such as the Vlatades, built in the 14th century and composed of an array of different buildings housing the monks, surrounding the Katholikon, i.e. the main church of the holy site, known for its ancient paintings covering all the walls and the massive iconostasis in front of the altar.
From the Vlatades monastery, visitors enjoy one of the best views of the town, admiring the gulf where dozens of cargos ships travel every day. From there to the low town is like descending from heaven, as you become easily caught in the reality of a living and chaotic city. Although some relics of the past are still present, like the 7th century Saint Sophia basilica, or Roman nobleman Galerius’ tomb, your attention will also be caught by the places where the current life of Thessalonikians unfold. In Agora Modiano, an open-air market, it is common to hear people playing and singing music at the restaurants near the grocery stands. And, if fish smell doesn’t bother you, a walk at the seaside will show you how much Thessaloniki cares about their ancient past: they named their main water-front square for Aristotle and built a massive monument to Alexander the Great that overlooks all ships coming to port. A task which in the past was entrusted to the White Tower of Thessaloniki, built by the Ottomans in the 15th century, today a museum of antiquities.
Inside Chalkidiki
Visiting Thessaloniki could be tiring, due to the numerous points of interest all over town. A break in the nearby Peraia beaches, at the southern-east corner of the gulf, is well advised before engaging in a new adventure — discovering the beauties of the Chalkidiki peninsula.
Known by geography nerds for its three-edged shape, which makes it similar to Poseidon’s trident, Chalkidiki is a mostly mountainous area where nature occupies more space than humans. Forests will surround you as you will drive – trains are not common – through the several majestic valleys. In the first few kilometers, your attention will be captured by the several monasteries apparently hanging from the mountain walls. One of them, Hagia Anastasias Farmakolitas, welcomes you at the foot of the valley, where the road is preceded by a massive red portal, composed of two arcades at whose foundations lay three beautiful chapels, painted with holy motives on every inch of space.
The monastery will seem more of a fortress, due to the external wall which as a belt protects the inner church. If you are lucky enough to be there on a Sunday, you will admire the beauty of the mysterious Orthodox service or a great Greek party if someone is being married or baptized.
Driving further in Chalkidiki many villages will enchant you with their history and traditions.
Arnea is a typical village, famous for its stone-built houses, steep alleys and for having been the scenario of harsh clashes during the Balkan wars, fought between 1912 and 1913. The memory of those events is inscribed on several monuments around the town, which is also known as a mecca for hikers and mountain bikers.
Delicacies from Macedonia
Before leaving Macedonia, a culinary stop is mandatory. In Chalkidiki, right at the top of a mountain, an old, near 100-years-old man, is ready to serve you. Sogambros is himself a landmark of Macedonia, figuring in tourist guides from all over the world. Back in the day, he was surely a playboy, due to his sly gaze and histrionic behavior. While you will eat endless meat, fresh cheese, grilled vegetables, and drink Retsina wine – a local delicacy whose aromatic taste derives from pine and mastic resin – Sogambros will sing, make jokes, and showing you all the awards and Baedekers talking about him. German tourists seem to particularly love him and some visit him multiple times, often bringing him gifts for the previous birthdays they have missed.
There, sitting on an outdoor table in the middle of trees and hearing the wood burning in the grill’s fire, you will realize why Macedonia is a destination fit for everyone, where to find calm and amusement, entertainment and culture, sea and mountain. And, when you go, remember to bring a gift for Sogambros.
Author
