Daniel J. Defonte’s Way, a new Red Hook street, by Kimberly Gail Price

In 1922, Nicky Defonte opened a sandwich shop on Columbia Street in Red Hook, Brooklyn. After his retirement, the family business was passed along to his sons, Danny and Vito. Through decades of change, the sandwich stop still stands. One man is hoping to honor their legacy.

Angel Conde, better known as “Spanky,” started hanging around Defontes when he was 12 years old. When Spanky’s father died, Danny took him under his wing and treated him like one of his own children.

Danny also gave him his first job. “He kinda set me straight. I was a young knucklehead,” Spanky said.
Spanky scrubbed pots and pans after school. One day, Danny taught him how to make sandwiches. Along the way, Danny taught him a strong work ethic. “There are no freebies in this world; you have to work hard,” Spanky recalls him saying.

Spanky had his first child when he was 18. He would take his son to the store, and the family always made sure he was okay. For the Defontes, family was always first; Spanky was part of their extended family.

At 16, Spanky dropped out of school. He started working full time for the Defontes. When he left at age 19, he took the lessons of family and hard work with him into the construction business.

Nearly two decades later, Spanky is a regular at Defontes. Late last year, when Danny passed away in December, Spanky was at all of the viewings and services. “They always made sure I was okay,” he said. “I’m ever grateful for them.”

To honor Danny, Spanky started a petition to rename a block after him. The block from Commerce to Luquer Streets on Columbia would be called Daniel J. Defonte Way. Spanky said he didn’t want it to be street or place because, “it was his Way that set us straight.”

Current owner, “Little Nicky” Defonte was delighted about the idea. “If anybody deserves this it’s [Danny]. It’s a beautiful thing that they want to honor my father like this.”

Little Nicky started working with his father as a young man. They worked side by side for 30 years before Danny retired at age 72. Sometimes the two didn’t always agree on how to run things. But Danny wouldn’t let tension come between his family. He would tell Nicky, “Whatever happens in the store – after that – no grudges.

Say what you gotta say, and then it’s over.”

Nicky remembers the kind of man his father was. If anybody came into the store, they were fed – even if they couldn’t afford to pay for a sandwich. “Nobody walked out of here hungry,” he said. Danny would accept a penny or an IOU and then forget about the debt.

Danny and his brothers all started working at the store after returning from WWII. When he took over the store with his brother Vito, they learned hard work and a sense of family. As employees came through their store, they passed these qualities along.

Henry Marante has worked at Defontes for 40 years. He described himself as another “young and stupid kid” that Danny pulled off the streets when he was 16 years old. He started working in the front of the store making sandwiches.

In 1983, Henry was engaged to be married. His boiler went out one evening and he called Danny to tell him he wouldn’t be at work the next day. Danny and his wife brought over two heaters that night. “His heart was bigger than him,” Henry said.

During down time, Danny would talk to the guys about “normal life things,” Henry said. He would ask about their families, weekend plans, which restaurants they had eaten at. But when it came to work, Danny was very serious.

Nicky called Danny a “bull” when it came time to work. He worked alongside his workers, just as Nicky does now. “We’re right there in the fire. Nobody is too good to do any job.”

Danny was nicknamed “Cagney” because of his attitude and a specific walk that reminded the guys of Cagney movie. When Henry took over as manager, he honored

Danny with the Cagney Special – peppered ham, provolone cheese, eggplant and sweet peppers.

Raymond Rotundi worked at his father’s luncheonette down the street for years until the building was sold in 2011. After his dad’s store closed, Defontes – once again – took him in and gave him a job.

He remembers his father Frank being friendly with Danny, even though they were competitors.

Larry DeMonte started working for the Defonte family when he was 16 years old. After nearly four decades, he now is partners with Nicky. He remembers Danny as “hard-working” and “extremely dedicated to his wife and kids.” Danny taught Larry a strong work ethic. “Hard work pays off,” Larry said. “He was good to me.”

Larry agrees with the petition. “If they’re going to put anybody’s name on it, it should be him.”

When Russell Goddard was only 8 years old, Danny gave him 50 cents to deliver food up the block. When Russell showed his friends the money, they were all impressed. He said, “I was the richest person in the neighborhood!”

Decades later, Russell is still working at Defontes.

A petition to rename a block of Columbia Street will appear in front of the Community Board 6 (CB6) Transportation Committee on Thursday, January 21.

To change the street name, 500-1,000 signatures are needed. Once approved by CB6, the petition will move to the City Council. Spanky estimates that he already has enough – approximately 550 – but will continue to collect signatures at Defontes until the CB6 meeting.

Danny Defonte worked at the store for 55 years, 6 days a week. “Like the postmaster,” Nicky said. “Pain in his legs, snow, rain – it didn’t matter. He was here every day. He was a tough guy. Tough!” Danny retired at age 72.

“To work with my father was an honor,” Nicky said. “He affected so many young people in this neighborhood. I didn’t realize until my father passed away the effect he had on [Spanky] and so many others.”

And the respect Danny had was mutual. “He was very proud of Spanky.” Nicky said. “He started with nothing. Now he’s got 3 kids, a construction job. He treats his kids like a father should because he felt the nurturing and caring that [Danny] taught him.”